The Gilded Age Amidst The Palms

UPDATE 1/24/13 After I wrote this post, local reporter Christine Davis delivered some very interesting and  juicy tidbits regarding Whitehall! Here's what she had to say:

Mary Lily (Henry's wife)  supposedly moves plates around, so a guide told us once. The story goes she was poisoned! You can read an intriguing account of that theory here.

There's another bizarre story about her that is always denied. It has to do with her being "kept" by Flagler before they were married.  From what I remember when I was doing the research, the guy who reported this killed himself.  He wasn't taken seriously, although it was said he was a serious historian.  I can't remember his name. I asked Mr. Ponce about both incidences. he said his dad was an undertaker so he doesn't believe in ghost stories, and he said Flagler would never had put Mary Lily up at the Seagull Cottage.   It was on the lawn of the hotel, and far too visible. He says it just would not have been done...I recently enjoyed a fabulous blog post by the talented Linda Merrill of Surroundings.  Through her blog, she can show you homedecor and make you feel like you’re right there in the house! In this particular post she featured famous homes of the Gilded (Downton Abbey) Age. Read her post here.   With a nod to her, I thought I’d give you a little taste of the Gilded Age, Palm Beach style!  It has been ages since I visited Whitehall a.k.a. The Henry Morrison Flagler Museum in Palm Beach.  So, in keeping with my new year’s resolution to infuse KFL with some local flavor, I give you Whitehall.Whitehall, aka The Flagler MuseumWhitehall was constructed in Palm Beach in 1902 by Oil magnate Henry Flagler as a wedding present for his third wife Mary Lily Kenan (37 years his junior ;).  It sits on the banks of the Intracoastal across the street from our famous Breakers Hotel which is located on the ocean side.  Besides being massive, this private home boasted modern plumbing and electricity.  In fact, Thomas Edison was one of the original electrical contractors! (And you thought he just sat around in his workshop and played with light bulbs.) Whitehall also supposedly had the only telephone located in the Master Bath!The bazillionaire himself, Henry Flagler Here's how Henry kept track of his money before computersThis is a story of  the neauveau riche.  Flagler, born in 1830, was the son of a minister who was savvy enough to partner with John D. Rockefeller and Samuel Andrews to found Standard Oil.  Voila a bazillionaire is born!  He also established the Florida East Coast Railroad with train service from Jacksonville to Key West.  Incidentally, when approached, Mr. Rockefeller wanted nothing to do with the project, “Why build a railroad for a bunch of mosquitoes?” he said!  Good thing Henry didn’t listen. You could say he fathered the tourism industry in Florida by making our corner of Paradise accessible.  Speaking of accessible, once you got here, the only means of transportation on the island were boats and something called a bicycle chair.  I really wanted to show you the kitchen but sadly it did not survive the transition from home to hotel to Museum.One view of the 5000 square foot Receiving Hall. Yes, they were big into an 18th century French look. This is a portion of the Grand Hall Ceiling depicting the Oracle of Delphi imparting Apollo's message of divine inspiration through arts and literature.  Thank God! I thought they were just about the money ;) As we were leaving the ginormous Reception Hall I spied this fancy bit of needlework adorning a chair.This chair, found in the library off the Reception Hall is in the Italian Renaissance style Ceiling detail as seen in the Music Room. What appears to be carved moldings are actually gold leaf plaster!  Gives new meaning to the term "gilding the lily".  "Lady in the Veil" and is a marble bust by E. Fiaschi. This I noticed as we were leaving the Music Room.  I know nothing about it and I thought it was an extremely odd choice for the room.  Intriguing, huh?Mr. Flagler was a patron of young unknown artists and actually founded an artist colony in St. Augustine.  So much of the art found in Whitehall is the product of this venture.The central courtyard allowed for the circulation of ocean breezes.  The entire house was air conditioned in 2002, Whitehall's centenial year.This is the ceiling of the South Hall which was especially advanced for the period.  Indirect lighting is used to light the coffered barrel ceiling.The ballroom was the setting for nightly entertainment during the season.  Chaneliers are Baccarat crystal 

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The table is set.  Although the original table was way bigger (of course).  It is currently located in some insurance company that doesn't want to sell it back! The happy coupleHere's what it says below the photo: "Glimpses of the Flaglers' loving relationship are recorded in personal letters and candid photographs.  This ca. 1909 photo was taken by the Whiteall's resident organist, Arthur Spalding, who spent a lot of time with the couple and recorded many details of their private life."  Kind of creepy if you ask me, no?This is one of those modern bathrooms I mentioned.  They certainly took advantage of gravity for the big flush!  Each guest room had it's own bathroom.  The second floor was devoted to private living space for the Flaglers as well as guests and staff.  In addition to the Master Suite there were originally 14 guest bedrooms, 13 servants rooms, 17 bathrooms and Mrs. Flagler's sitting room (yes you had to have one of those).My favorite of the Guest Chambers is suggestive of the Arts and Crafts period, not as ornate. After the Guest Chambers we came upon the Servants Quarters which were much more appealing to me in their simplicity.2013-01-13 14.09.442013-01-13 14.09.55Adjoining the Master Suite is Mrs. Flagler's Dressing Chamber.  Mr. Flagler also had one of his own.A wall of drawers located at one end of the Dressing Chamber shows the scale of the cabinetry. The lovely young lady on the left is five feet tall.  How did they look into those top drawers?

After the Flaglers' deaths, a relative sold the estate to investors who built a large addition and turned it into the Whitehall  Hotel in 1925. By 1959 things weren't going so well.  The tourism industry was booming but there were also, by this time, many  hotels and resorts competing for the business.  It was at this time that Henry Flagler's granddaughter, Jean Flagler Matthews purchased the property and opened the The Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, Inc., a nonprofit corporation.  It has been open to the public since 1960.

2013-01-13 14.17.59Downstairs in the Gift Shop we found and amazing array of books about the Gilded Age. This one looks good! 

Here's a link to that book

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Upon exiting the estate we came upon the Flagler Kenan Pavilion featuring Flagler's private railcar, a.k.a. Railcar No. 91. He traveled in this car down to Key West via his Overseas Highway in 1912 to celebrate its completion.

In the Pavilin they have an example of one of those nifty bicycle chairs I mentionedThe last stop was the at the end of the railroad car.  Guess what I finally found?  Yes, a kitchen at last! Crazy, huh?Thanks for taking this little Sunday afternoon tour with me! I have a lot more local flavor to add to the mix here at KFL.  Thanks for taking this little Sunday afternoon tour with me!  If you'd like more info on The Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, Inc., click here.